The Last Saree Dyers of Kutch: Women Keeping a Chromatic Craft Alive

In the arid expanse of Gujarat’s Kutch region, where the heat shimmers off salt plains and landscapes fade into ochre and beige, a quiet yet vibrant tradition thrives. A group of determined women are preserving the art of hand-dyeing sarees—using techniques passed down through generations, yet nearly forgotten. More than artisans, these women are guardians of a deeply rooted cultural craft, breathing life back into Kutch’s chromatic textile history.

Kutch’s Textile Traditions Beyond The Familiar

While Kutch is widely known for Ajrakh block printing and Bandhani tie-dye, another lesser-documented practice exists—the dyeing of sarees in vivid, symbolic colours. Traditionally, men dominated the region’s textile dyeing. But as economic migration drew men away from villages, it was women who stepped in, ensuring the threads of tradition didn’t unravel.

With time, their role evolved from observers to innovators. These women, working in open courtyards or modest homes, have redefined the narrative of dyeing—turning it from livelihood to legacy.

From Observers To Artisans

For many women in Kutch’s rural clusters, saree dyeing began as a necessity. When markets declined and traditional practices faced extinction, they took it upon themselves to revive the methods they had grown up watching. Working with both inherited and improvised recipes, they brought back shades like kesari (a deep saffron), morpankhi (inspired by the hues of peacock feathers), and earthy rust tones reminiscent of geru pigment.

While geru itself isn’t commonly used as a fabric dye, it has inspired the palette of these artists, who replicate its rustic essence through safer, sustainable materials.

A Meticulous And Time-Honoured Process

The process of saree dyeing is a labour-intensive art. Sarees are first tied using threads or grains to create patterns—similar to the resist-dyeing techniques seen in Bandhani. They are then dipped into carefully prepared dye vats, where water temperature, timing, and repetition dictate the final outcome.

Once dyed, the sarees are dried in the open air. Here, Kutch’s fierce sunlight accelerates drying, and the region’s dry winds lend a crisp finish to the fabric. Though sunlight doesn’t fix the dye chemically, it contributes to the distinct look and feel of the saree.

Embracing Sustainability And Innovation

While older generations stuck to vegetable-based dyes and time-tested practices, younger women have started exploring eco-conscious alternatives. Some are now incorporating dyes derived from kitchen waste, flower petals, and plant extracts—striking a balance between tradition and sustainability.

Collaborations with NGOs and design collectives have further widened their reach, helping bring these handcrafted sarees to boutique stores, exhibitions, and global fashion circles that value slow fashion.

Challenges That Persist

Despite their dedication, the women saree dyers of Kutch face numerous hurdles. Unstable weather conditions—especially unpredictable rainfall—can affect dyeing and drying schedules. Limited access to financial resources and infrastructure hampers production scale, while waning interest among younger generations raises concerns about continuity.

Yet, through each dyed saree, they assert their resilience. Every fabric becomes an emblem of defiance against cultural dilution and the homogenising tide of mass production.

Sarees That Speak Of Soul

More than mere garments, these sarees have become symbols of identity and heritage. Buyers, especially those aligned with sustainable fashion, value them for their narrative as much as their aesthetic. Each piece carries the warmth of human touch, the fragrance of desert wind, and the quiet strength of women who refuse to let a legacy vanish.

Passing On The Craft

Efforts are underway to pass on the skill. Local organisations and community leaders are organising workshops to train younger women. Initiatives are also emerging to ensure fair wages and market access through online platforms and curated exhibitions. Though the scale remains small, the movement is gaining momentum.

Colouring The Future With Hope

Today, as these women stand over steaming dye pots—hands stained in marigold and indigo—they do more than preserve tradition. They paint hope onto fabric. Their art speaks of a future rooted in cultural pride, environmental mindfulness, and creative freedom.

In an era racing towards fast fashion, the saree dyers of Kutch remind us of a slower, more meaningful rhythm—where every colour is earned, and every motif tells a story worth remembering.