The History Of Boli In Thiruvananthapuram And What Makes It So Popular

Regional specialities are a curious category of Indian cuisine. Sometimes they’re larger than life and spark international headlines like the once humble vada-pav of Mumbai, but more often than not, they stay confined to their home states where locals ardently love them but are odd curiosities to people looking in. In Kerala there are a fair few local dishes which have woven their way into the heart of Malayali culture but none are quite as fascinating as the Boli.

These thin yellow stuffed pancakes are tied to the culture of Thiruvananthapuram but gained popularity across the state to become a staple of all festive occasions but in particular the Onam sadya. Ask any Kerala native what they miss most about being away from home during the harvest festival and most will cite Boli before their family.

The thin gram pancake with a chana dal centre, flavoured with nutmeg is usually served with a ladelful of hot payasam on top for a delicious combination of textures and flavours. Though they look simple, the process of making boli is quite laborious, and many people opt to buy them readymade. Though the hub of Boli’s fanbase is in Thiruvananthapuram, its history stretches far beyond.

The History Of Bolis
The introduction of the dish to the city can be attributed to the Tulu Brahmins from Karnataka who settled here. Over time, it became a staple, particularly gaining favour among the Maratha Brahmin Dewans of the former Travancore region. They embraced boli as an integral part of their festivities, and soon it became a must-have item at wedding feasts in Thiruvananthapuram.

The hallmark of a delectable boli lies in its texture – soft, delicate, and capable of melting in the mouth when toasted with just the right amount of ghee. A well-made boli strikes the perfect balance between sweetness and flouriness, making it an ideal companion to rich milky payasam. The Boli bears some resemblance to the Puran Poli of Maharashtra, the greatest differences being the fact that latter incorporates jaggery and cardamom to sweeten and flavour the dough, whereas bolis are usually made with sugar, cardamom, and a touch of nutmeg.

The charm of the Boli is hard to translate. A mixture of childhood memories, nostalgia of Onam gatherings past and the sweet taste of local traditions on the tip of your tongue. Boli may not have international acclaim, but for those who grew up with the dessert, it’s an irreplaceable part of life.

Try your hand at making these special Kerala treats yourself with this easy recipe.

Thiruvananthapuram Boli Recipe
Ingredients
1 cup Channa dal
1 cup Sugar
1 pinch Dry ginger Powdered

1 pinch Cumin dry roasted and powdered
2 pods Cardamom Powdered

Outer covering:
1 cup All-purpose flour
1/3 tsp Turmeric powder
A small pinch Salt
3-4 tsp Sesame oil

For spreading:
2-3 tbsp Rice flour
Ghee as required

Method:
Cook the channa dal in a pressure cooker with just enough water until almost done (not mashed or pasty).
Drain off excess water if any and immediately add the sugar to the hot dal. Mix well until cool (the heat from the dal is enough to melt the sugar). Grind it into a fine smooth paste.

Take a heavy bottom pan, pour the mixture, add the dry spices powdered earlier, and heat until it thickens, stirring constantly. This will take only a minute or two, to reach a thick dough consistency. When it cools, divide the dough into equal portions and shape into balls.
Mix all-purpose flour, turmeric powder, and salt. Add water to make a smooth, sticky dough. Add sesame oil on top and let it rest for about half an hour while the filling is prepared.
Dip fingers in water, take a small ball of the dough (just enough to cover the filling), spread the dough in the palm of your hand, and keep the filling inside. Cover the filling entirely with dough, then roll it into a ball. Put it into the rice flour for dusting, then roll it into a thin disc. Dip fingers in water only if the dough is too sticky. Use rice flour to prevent the disc from sticking to the surface.

Heat a tawa over medium to high heat, cook boli on one side until it puffs slightly, then turn and cook for a few seconds. Apply ghee on just this side and transfer onto a butter paper to cool with the ghee side on top.

Store in an airtight container for up to two days at room temperature or up to a week in the fridge.