Centuries-old craft, modern allure: The attar evolution in Lucknow and Kannauj

Amina AshrafFrom the narrow lanes of Chowk and Hazratganj to luxury shelves across the world, Lucknow and Kannauj ’s itra have come a long way. Once the pride of royalty and later overshadowed by chemical sprays, they are now finding their way back into people’s lives. Their story is not just about fragrance but about how a centuries-old craft has adapted to every generation. Today, attars are not loved just for its heritage but also because they are natural, sustainable and luxurious. As Lucknow Times complete 30 years, we travel back in time and speak to perfumers whose families have carried this craft for generations, to new entrepreneurs giving it a modern identity, and to Lucknowites who cherish it in daily life, to see how attars have not only stayed relevant but also redefined the perfume industry over centuries.Founded in 1928, Izharsons Perfumers opened its Hazratganj store in 2006. Nauman Abbasi , proprietor of the business, remembers how Lucknow's perfume market changed over the years and reflected, "Initially, Lucknow didn't show much inclination towards attar, even though it had a royal legacy. The shelves were dominated by deodorants and synthetic perfumes. But once people realised that attars are sustainable and long-lasting, their popularity grew. Today, we export worldwide, and our customers are so loyal that once they buy from Lucknow, they always return," he adds.People's choices in fragrances have also changed over the years, feels Abbasi, adding, "Earlier, choices were limited in itra fragrances. Now we have woody, musk, fruit-based and citrus notes which are quite in demand. Even the bottles have evolved. Earlier, only fragrance mattered; now ornate bottles make the experience memorable."Abbasi also reflects how attars are also part of Lucknow's festival spirit which has remained timeless through each decade. He expresses, "In Lucknow keeping up with the essence of ganga-jamuni tehzeeb, people who don't play with colours on Holi apply itra on each other instead, even on Eid they take the itra along, it’s a syncretic way of celebrating festivals that's what makes Lucknow special," he says.You can't understand Lucknow's attar business without knowing about its royal past. This history lives on in places like Sughand Co , which opened in Janpath Market, Hazratganj in 1980, and connects directly to the Nawabi courts. Owner Vinod Vijayvergiya remembers, "Our shop opened in Hazratganj in 1980. At that time, there were no standard fragrance shops, and most people relied on foreign perfumes. Indians often found traditional fragrances too strong and heady, so we reimagined them to make them lighter, more adaptable, and appealing to the new generation. This innovation changed the very concept of Indian fragrances."The city has grown with time, and so is their love for the fragrances. He adds, "Over the years, Hazratganj has modernised but has never lost its traditional charm, and our shop has been a part of that journey. Families have been coming to us for generations, passing down their love for attars. During festivals, the shop would be full of excitement and laughter. We've also welcomed local, national and international personalities, along with visitors discovering Indian attars for the first time." He continues to add how young people are giving itra a new meaning. "For them, itras aren't just perfumes, they're a way to connect with culture, heritage and personal identity and to Lucknow."This cultural connection with itra became even more important when people started to care more about the environment. Pranav Kapoor , an eighth-generation perfume maker from Kannauj and founder of PKapo, says the change came because old methods work well with today's green thinking. He adds, "Traditional people wore itra as it was once royalty oriented, as these oils on the skin stay longer due to their property of diffusing well. However, it's now a trend as itra are now a part of the commercial market as well. They speak of sustainability, tradition, culture and artisans attracting conscious consumers."Kapoor, who also runs a perfume tourism company shares how the evolution in the industry has made people more curious in the making of it. "Itra-making is fully artisanal till now with no instrument gauges, everything is analog. But what's new is that people now want to see how it's made. Experiential tourism around perfumes is growing fast," he informs.This new interest has also led Gen Z to care more about the authenticity and quality of attars. Swapnil Pathak , a fourth-generation perfumer and founder of Zighrana from Kannauj, credits the evolution of itra to their sustainable appeal. With a family legacy in the fragrance industry dating back to 1911, Swapnil runs a luxury perfume store in New York, where she observes that people are increasingly seeking authenticity in perfumes. “Itra is making a comeback because it's natural, sustainable, and gentle on the skin. People are more conscious now; they want clean, eco-friendly products with authenticity. Earlier itra used to be mostly oil-based, which prevented people from using them as the oil would leave a mark on their clothes. But over the years, itra manufacturing has also adapted to the latest technology and now not only do we have various fragrances like woody, citrus, and fruit-based but also alcohol based sprays which leave no mark on ones clothes. With time, people have had a realization, and they are returning to their roots."This global love has also inspired young business owners who are leading this change. Vidushi, founder of Isak and a Shark Tank success story, perfectly mixes tradition with modern life. Coming from a perfume family in Lucknow, she believes attars have adapted to global dreams now. "Ten or fifteen years ago, itra was mostly about jasmine and rose. Today, people want fresher notes like neroli, chandan, and vanilla, while oudh and saffron have become symbols of modern luxury. This shift shows how itra are no longer just linked to nostalgia they're part of aspirational lifestyles," she says.For her, being eco-friendly is a big reason itra is popular again. "Attars are more eco-friendly compared to deodorants. Bottles are refillable, so customers often buy large packs and refill smaller ones for daily use. Since flowers are extracted at source, there's less waste and a smaller carbon footprint. And unlike chemical sprays, real attars are naturally long-lasting and safe on the skin." She also sees them becoming part of wellness routines.Back in Lucknow's traditional markets, this revival is just as clear. In Chowk, Furqan, a fourth-generation perfume maker from Moid Ali and Sons, has seen itra reach new customers. "Itra were once known only to connoisseurs. But now young people are also choosing them for practical and environmental reasons. The attar industry has definitely grown with time, keeping Lucknow and Kannau now at the forefront of it, with the city becoming more advanced in infrastructure and lifestyle choices. With time, the city's timeless yet consistent love for itra has now made Lucknow a spot for fragrance lovers worldwide."For researcher Fatima Junaid, attars define Lucknow's soul. "Growing up, shops like Sugandh Co. and Moid Ali Sons were always part of life. Attars have evolved to shape the global perfume scene. Now, people recognise Lucknow for its authenticity, subtle fragrance, and longevity. Gen Z is into attars too they know the difference between oil-based and ethanol-based perfumes. It's a cultural revival," says Fatima.Marking this evolution are also shops like Naso and Shark Tank famed Adil Qadri perfumes who have recently opened their shops in Hazratganj. This speaks of how the city that once had these quaint attar shops is now also filled with contemporary perfumes, redefining the perfume space in Lucknow.