From Jodhaa Akbar to Piku: How Bollywood Made Jewellery Part of the Story

Bollywood has always been fascinated by love, family, tradition and drama, but its storytelling often extends beyond dialogues and performances. Jewellery, too, has played an important role in defining characters, establishing cultural settings and even expressing emotions between protagonists.

Long before social media mood boards, stylists and Pinterest became sources of fashion inspiration, Bollywood films were already creating a visual jewellery archive.

Over the years, accessories have gone from being simple elements of a costume to becoming an important part of a character’s identity and, at times, the story itself.

When Jewellery Became a Symbol of Royalty

Ashutosh Gowariker’s Jodhaa Akbar remains one of Bollywood’s most striking examples of jewellery reflecting heritage and status. While the film takes creative liberties, its visual presentation draws heavily from India’s royal traditions.

Aishwarya Rai’s portrayal of Jodha was defined by elaborate jewellery, including traditional Rajasthani chokers, oversized maang-tikkas, bajubands and naths. The jewellery established her identity as a Rajput princess even before she spoke.

The popularity of the film’s jewellery also contributed to renewed interest in polki sets and matha-pattis at Indian weddings. The influence continues to be visible, with bridal jewellery collections often featuring designs described as ‘Jodha Sets’.

Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Jewellery as Poetry

If Jodhaa Akbar used jewellery to represent royalty, Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s films transformed it into an important part of their visual language.

In Bajirao Mastani, Deepika Padukone’s portrayal of Mastani became particularly memorable for its jewellery. Her centre-parted hairstyle, striking makeup and elaborate nath connected to her hair with a pearl chain became a widely recreated bridal look. Priyanka Chopra’s Kashibai, meanwhile, was styled differently, with jewellery reflecting her Marathi heritage.

Padmaavat continued this tradition, with Deepika’s Rani Padmavati wearing a Rajputi borla maang-tikka, heavy gold aad and long rani-haars extending towards her waist. The jewellery complemented the character’s royal identity and reflected themes of pride and honour.

Bhansali’s earlier films also made a lasting impression. Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam highlighted the grandeur associated with Rajasthani culture, while Devdas presented the richness of Bengali traditions through its costumes and jewellery.

Jewellery Became Part of the Celebration

During the 1990s, Bollywood increasingly presented jewellery through family celebrations, weddings and festive occasions. Films such as Hum Aapke Hain Koun and Hum Saath-Saath Hain turned jewellery into an essential part of the Indian family-function aesthetic.

Madhuri Dixit’s Nisha in Hum Aapke Hain Koun remains a memorable example. Her purple lehenga, paired with a distinctive choker and matching earrings, continues to inspire recreated sangeet looks.

Karisma Kapoor, Tabu and Sonali Bendre also became associated with different jewellery styles that remain popular with younger audiences. These films demonstrated how jewellery could be adapted for different occasions, from daytime family functions to evening celebrations.

Kajol’s engagement and wedding looks in Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, where she appeared opposite Salman Khan’s Aman, also became memorable examples of Bollywood’s influence on festive fashion.

From Heavy Jewellery to Minimal Styling

As Bollywood moved into more contemporary settings, its approach to jewellery also became more understated. Modern characters were increasingly shown wearing pieces that complemented their personalities rather than dominating their outfits.

Deepika Padukone’s character in Piku (2015) is a clear example. Instead of statement necklaces or elaborate earrings, her look relied on small silver studs and a black bindi.

The simplicity became an important part of the character’s everyday appearance.

In Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahaani, Alia Bhatt brought another contemporary interpretation to traditional styling. Her simple chiffon and cotton sarees were often paired with oxidised silver jewellery, creating looks that combined traditional clothing with a more modern aesthetic.

When Jewellery Became a Symbol of Love

Sometimes, a piece of jewellery has been more than a styling choice and has directly contributed to a film’s story.

The blue jhumkas featured in Anwar, reportedly bought from a local market, became memorable because of their emotional significance to the on-screen couple. What began as a token of affection became closely associated with their relationship.

A similar storytelling device appears in Imtiaz Ali’s latest film, Main Vaapas Aauga. Jiya deliberately loses her chand bali as a way to meet Keenu. The missing piece later becomes significant to their tragic love story, with Jiya seen without one jhumka during her final moment.

From Jodha’s elaborate royal chokers to Piku’s understated silver studs, Bollywood has repeatedly used jewellery to communicate identity, culture, relationships and emotion. While cinematic fashion has evolved over the years, jewellery has remained much more than an accessory on screen—it has often been an essential part of the story itself.